Kampala’s oldest house
In Summary
The house is very and was built before Mwanga became king of Buganda as Henry Lubega explores.
Welcome to Bwanga house, Kabaka Mwanga’s first
house before he became king of Buganda in 1884. Located in Zalwango Zone
in Kasubi, off Hoima road, the house is part of the greater Kasubi
Tombs site according to Musenero Mawejje, whose great grandfather was
the chief brewer in the royal palace.
How it came to be
The 10-roomed house was built in late 1880s by youthful Mwanga, as his homestead. The first structure was grass- thatched. When he was crowned king in 1884 culture demanded that he builds a palace. He relocated to Masaja, where he built his first palace called Mukulutatamakaage(an elder of the home doesn’t abandon it). This palace did not last because he left it to build the present- day Twekobe in Mengo.
The 10-roomed house was built in late 1880s by youthful Mwanga, as his homestead. The first structure was grass- thatched. When he was crowned king in 1884 culture demanded that he builds a palace. He relocated to Masaja, where he built his first palace called Mukulutatamakaage(an elder of the home doesn’t abandon it). This palace did not last because he left it to build the present- day Twekobe in Mengo.
When he went to Masaja the house was left to the
Basenero, the king’s brewers. During the turbulent times of his reign,
he never returned to the place until when he died in exile. When it was
decided that his remains be returned, the grass-thatched house, it was
renovated in 1910 in preparation for the return of the body. The current
structure (in picture) was completed in 1919. Since then, it was never
renovated until after the return of Kabaka mutesa from exile in 1955,
when the house was plastered, painted and the floor was cemented, on
Mutesa’s order.
Musenero says the original palace sat on more than
five acres of land but it has all been eaten up by development. The
main compound is partly taken up by a car park; at the extreme end of
the compound are public toilets and showers where one is charged Shs 200
and shs 500 for a shower. In the backyard, are other shanty structures
with what used to be Mwanga’s private courtyard now a malwa preparation
ground.
Due to its enormous size some rooms are rented out to other people, the verandah is now a tailoring workshop.
Unique architecture
This historic house was built with the Ganda version of a ceiling called okusisila. This was made of reed, palm poles or enkoma, and grass mixed with mud. Omumbejja Nandaula says, “with this kind of ceiling no heat can be felt from the roof.” It is also soundproof. The iron sheets that were put on in 1919 when its construction was completed have never been changed and none of them leaks either.”
This historic house was built with the Ganda version of a ceiling called okusisila. This was made of reed, palm poles or enkoma, and grass mixed with mud. Omumbejja Nandaula says, “with this kind of ceiling no heat can be felt from the roof.” It is also soundproof. The iron sheets that were put on in 1919 when its construction was completed have never been changed and none of them leaks either.”
Bwanga house has borne its fair share of the
cost of Kampala’s changing face. Musenero says, “the road reserve meant
for people to stand as the king passed by, is covered by new house
structures and our rituals are no more.”
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