ADVENTURING THROUGH AFRICA!

Conroy shares a moment with new friends in Bostwana. He has ridden through 10 African countries since October 2011. COURTESY PHOTO 

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A tone of disappointment hits his voice at the mention of the word plane, as though to imply he should have travelled to South Africa on a bicycle.

“I will never board a plane again, that was my last time. It inconveniences me a lot because I have to pack my bicycle and it could easily rust,” he says, his face stuck to his ‘best friend and worst enemy at the same time.

After a few weeks in South Africa, he crossed to Namibia, later moving to Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya and now Uganda. Next on his schedule is Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo and Morocco. His ultimate goal is to visit at least 35 African countries.
“I would have loved to go to Sudan and South Sudan, but the thought of dust from the desert puts me off. It can be hard ridding in such conditions,” he says.

“I love Africa, I have stayed here much longer than I expected, but I just don’t feel like leaving this place,” he says of the continent that has hosted him for over two years now. “I am shocked by the way the west makes Africa appear a continent of misery. Some people actually think Africa is one country. I am going to write a book about my experience in Africa to correct their misconceptions. I think the greatest thing about Africa is not the tourist attractions but its people,” he speaks on and on, looking me straight in the face. He utters every word with a sense of nostalgia.

He will not allow me to disrupt the free flow of his memories of Africa, “I was in Zimbabwe and people came and thanked me for not believing the bad things the west says about that country. Amazing people I tell you, with extreme resilience.” With all his numerous encounters in the past and those that lie ahead, Conroy is not about to stop riding. Not with the many people he claims give him feedback of how his life story has compelled them to do something different.

“I met a guy working with Nasa, in charge of the last stages of space air stations launches and shared my story. He sent me a message saying he resigned from NASA and sold off his property to pursue his dream in New Zealand. Such stories inspire me,” he says. He emphasizes, “I am not dying to enter the Guinness Book of world records or even prove a point. It is not a competition, I am only doing something that makes me happy. I might wake up tomorrow and say I have lost interest. I am done with it.”

The cyclist who hopes to ride to the Middle East, Europe and Asia, admitting he suffers immense pain of body and mind in pursuing this form of happiness, only affirms the passion and resilience every word and step he makes points to. The reason why, if and when he runs out of money, he will, “trade skills with currency, get a small job so someone can give me food and accommodation before I proceed.” He shares his experiences on his website- Tired of I.T.com. If that is what it takes for a man to live a life outside the conventional and achieve fulfillment, then Dave Conry, like his magic bicycle, one can say, might just be the only man of his kind in the world.

RIDING A BICYCLE FROM SOUH AFRICA TO UGANDA

Above, the rider camped at Red Chilly in Mbuya. He stayed in Kampala for a few days and continued his journey to Rwanda. Below, he met Keneth Kaunda when he was in Zambia. PHOTOS BY ISMAIL KEZAALA AND COURTESY PHOTO

In Summary

The bicycle adventurer. Canadian Dave Conroy gave up his job as a computer consultant and set off on the adventure of his life, cycling to different countries in the world. He has already been to 10 African countries on what he calls a “one of its kind” bicycle.

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Dave Conroy’s life story is as incredibly amazing as it is unbelievable. For four years, the 35-year-old Canadian, currently in Uganda, has ridden his bicycle around North America and Africa and is still on the move. He quit a well paying computer job, sold off his life possessions and set out on a mission to discover the world- on two wheels. How long it takes him, he has no idea. Whether he will pull it off or not, he is not sure.

A bicycle, his everything
From first impression, Conroy comes off as a perfect time manager. The appointment at Mbuya based Red Chilli Hideaway is set for 4pm. A phone call at the guest house’s gate to announce our arrival receives an instant, “I will join you in a second.” Hardly had we identified a seat for the interview, than a well built medium height man dashes out, dressed in a tight fitting red t-shirt and pair of black multi-pocketed cargo pants. Walking towards us, his pair of weighty, mountain-climber like shoes stamp the green compound.

When the photojournalist asks to have photographs taken first and then leave us to proceed with the interview, his face lights up with a contagious smile. He reaches for his bicycle, holding it with enviable warmness and murmurs, “this is my wardrobe, kitchen, girlfriend, office, bedroom, best friend and worst enemy at the same time.”

The sports bicycle, he claims, is the only one of its kind in the world. It was specially assembled for him in Britain six months before he hit the road. He will not reveal how much it cost him, but heaps praise on the machine whose rim bears 13 stickers of flags of the countries he has visited so far.
On average, the bicycle’s weight, with all the six bags he travels with combined, comes to 75 kilogrammes.
“It has some amazing features. I charge my electrical devices like the music system and phone using pedal power. The faster I pedal, the more energy it generates, so I only use petrol and diesel for the cooking stove,” he says, holding its tyres that have most recently ridden all the way from South Africa.
When we finally zero down on a comfy place for the three hour long interview, the sight of a tent draws more questions than sheer admiration.
This is his bedroom, anywhere and anytime wherever darkness dawns on him. The water proof, one metre long structure has a cozy yellow interior and air mattress.
“I need a good night’s rest otherwise I won’t ride the next day so it has got to be that cosy,” he shares, nodding his head. With a fairly good rapport established, we are now set to dig into his life.

Life of a computer nerd
Born in Canada, the last born of three children of two working class parents admits obsession with computers, calling himself, “a computer nerd.” By the age of eight, he would sit behind a computer for an average of 12 hours a day. Not playing games. And neither surfing the internet. In any case, this was in the 1980s when social media platforms like Facebook or even its founder, Mark Zuckerberg were not yet born.

Whilst other children played about, little Dave busied himself trying to learn how computers worked. Scratching his head to understand complex computer aspects like programming and networking. “My parents were okay with it because they knew where I was,” he quips. Nature however, was not okay with it. The computer without play lifestyle took a stall on him. “My life went crazy, I was not sociable, and I spent a lot of time on the screen, seeing things and yearning to learn everything about them. I could not sleep, I was not happy with life,” he says.

He started to worry about how to be successful, rich and what he was going to do with his life at 70. For a teenager, life was taking him on a rollercoaster of illusion and out of the world fantasies. Perhaps, he suggests, this had to do with his childhood environment. His sister was on special needs education following a pre-mature birth. Today, she is his role model. “The doctor said she would never sit upright. Today she has two children, a degree and is happily married. She inspires me because she didn’t let someone’s opinion determine her life.”

Describing himself as an introvert, architect of ideas, who loves adventure and doing things outside the conventional, almost structured western way of life, this single man, who shoves off the marriage question, set out to do something different with his life. First, he quit high school. A few weeks to graduation. The reason?
“I wanted to see what would happen. But on a serious note, school was too slow for me. It was not giving me the challenge I wanted in life.” That was only a step into a zillion miles of an anew life that would leave tongues wagging. Next on the agenda was to resign from a well paying computer related job that earned him consultancy stints beyond Canada.

Daring to follow his dreams
Then came the bombshell. He sold off all his possessions. From the mansion to whatever came with it, be it kitchen ware, clothes or furniture. Everything had to go. He only remained with two boxes of books and letters from friends.

“He has gone crazy. May be he wants to kill himself,” he quotes reactions to his eye-brow raising actions from family and friends. “I knew what I was doing. I told them you can express your concern, you are allowed to but just sit back and watch, wait and see and wish me well,” he told them.

It is this that amazon.com, in a review of his self published 240 page book entitled, “Tired of I.T. How I learnt to stop worrying and love the bicycle,” calls Dave’s quest to, “reprogram his mind and find inner peace.”

Conroy saw that inner peace in only one thing- the bicycle. It is at this point that the idea to discover the world and its peoples was born. For six months, he did extensive research on the internet and read self help books. About tourism, bicycles, cookery, accidents and first aid and everything he needed for a ride around the globe. The initial plan was to achieve the dream in nine months which later stretched to a year, two years, three years and now four years. He has since stopped counting.

The start of an incredible adventure
He chose July 2009 as the start of his journey. On the D-day, he didn’t sleep, thanks to intense anxiety. Much as he loved bicycles, he had taken two decades without riding one. He awoke, hurried to a restaurant for breakfast and grabbed his bicycle for a ride from Vancouver to the Gulf Islands in Canada. That was in 10 hours for a distance of 160-180km. His speed has since gone on a down ward spiral to 140km in 2010, 120km in 2011, 100km in 2012 and 80km in 2013.

Deep in the woods’ wilderness, he suffered his first set backs. First came mosquitoes and other strange insects that stung him, ripping skin and causing unstoppable bleeding. Then surviving death by a whisker when a suspected poacher shot at him twice, mistaking him for an animal. Luckily both bullets missed him.

That however, did not deter his ambition to cross to the United States, where he spent 30 days cycling across different regions of the vast North American nation. Another package of challenges awaited him in the wild with four legged creatures ranging from wild cats to beasts he had never seen attacking him. He pulls out a small knife, pushes its sharp end to his lower lip and says, “this lip is paralysed for the rest of my life. I got fellow riders in the US and we hang our bikes in trees. Mine fell and hurt me.”

SAFARI TO QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

Hippos at Kazinga Channel. Photo by Jude Katende 

By Jude Katende

In Summary:

At the heart of Queen Elizabeth National Park. This haven of wild life is one of the must visit places in Uganda. The most incredible thing about the park though, is the fact that each visit is a novel experience and maybe even better than the first.

Like a colleague quipped, you can never get enough of Queen Elizabeth National Park. This statement is very true. Every time you get there, there is still something new to discover. Although I had been to this place before, it was still quite refreshing to revisit what Uganda Wildlife Authority dubs as Uganda’s most popular tourist destination.

A light drizzle accosted part of the morning ahead of the wonderful safari. On that Friday morning, a group of journalists and I set off from National Theatre at 11.15am, one hour late from the originally scheduled time.

A journey of learning
Our two vans were to move together, as matter of policy from Great Lakes Safaris, our hosts. A stopover at the equator which divides the earth into the northern and southern hemisphere was made and as usually happens here, Kodak moments took centre stage. “Smile, say cheers,” and other such requests combed the air as camera flashes shone on our faces.

Noel Edroma, our guide and driver was good company as he explained several things along the way, things he had learned over the years from when he was an “intern” of sorts, like he were reading from a book about the park.
Going through its unique selling points, he said the park used to have rinderpest and tsetse flies in the past. These helped drive away many people who had started encroaching on the land. When it was sprayed and eventually rid of the “enemy”, people moved back into it but are now mostly live on its fringes.

At the haven of nature
We arrived some minutes past 7pm, exhausted. After we were allocated double and triple rooms, dinner and sleep occupied our minds most ahead of Saturday’s game drive. On Saturday, we woke up for a 6am breakfast and Edroma spread out the itinerary.

“The park has about 2,500 elephants. Males have rounded foreheads,” he explained. The park has a network of many game tracks which end at the Kasenyi fishing village. As Edroma had intimated, we saw elephants, waterbucks, warthogs, the Uganda Kob and herds of Buffaloes.
Kobs make sharp sounds to alert each other of potential danger in case they see strange faces or a lion in vicinity, such sounds were made when our vans inched forward. When mating is a whole different game.

However, our highlight was when we quietly watched lions at their mating ground. With the aid of binoculars, we saw about four lying down quietly around a rock. Not far from them were the Kobs, also at their mating ground, north east of Mweya. “Males have their own territories they keep from fellow males,” says our guide.

He added that females search for strong males to mate with preferably those with better genes. Uganda Kobs prefer flat areas because they can then easily see the lions from a distance. We saw a female Kob trying to win the hearts of some males but by the time we left she had been unsuccessful. Edroma told us that unlike humans, the female Kobs search for their mating partner.

They swing their tiny tails as a sign that they are ready and available. Although the males sniff at the tails when wooed, it is the females to make their pick, a tumultuous task, so we learned with first-hand experience. We don’t know if our presence and prying cameras made life hell for the animals, but we let them have their peace and off we continued to Kasenyi.

The Kasenyi community
At Kasenyi crater where Lake Bunyampaka lies, Edroma told us, plots (portions containing salt in the lake) are demarcated and sold the way land is sold. In the Kasenyi community, we saw how life entirely depends on fish. Most people here say they do not benefit from the animals and that the animals sometimes encroach on their land. Life is slow and residents have many children. Most houses are made of mud and wattle and people spend time conversing as they wait for the fishermen.

At Kyambura Gorge, Bernard Ejadu, another guide told us that the 100 metres deep place has five primate species. It comprises the gorge, Kyambura River and Kyambura Forest. I was lucky to have visited this gorge sometime back, unlike my colleagues because it wasn’t on the itinerary. Seeing that this large expanse is also within Queen Elisabeth National Park, it tells you how big this park is. Touring it in two days may seem quite hectic, but you won’t have seen everything.

Cruising along Kazinga Channel
The following day we set off at Kazinga Channel at 3pm. Edna Pukwatsibwe, our guide, took us through the history of the place as we sailed on the waters. It is then that I remembered she was the same guide some years back when I visited the park no wonder she knew the channel like the back of her hand.

Edna says the channel is within the Albertine Rift Valley. The natural channel is eight metres deep and stretches 40km long. It is home to 95 mammal species and 612 bird species. Hippos, which live for 45 years, can kill but donot eat people. Hippos stay in groups called schools. A school has 40 members usually with one dominant male.

Elephants have a 80-100 year life span, we learned. Edna said an elephant has a sharp memory. It can take revenge if you encounter it again, years after doing something bad to it. Along the channel, there are plenty of fauna to see.
There were lots of bird species such as Egyptian geese, the yellow billed stork and white pelicans as well as hippos swimming side by side with buffaloes. Elephants and crocodiles were also a good sight attraction. The two hour journey includes a point where Lakes Edward and George “meet.”

At 5pm, true to the guide’s word, we were back at the shore with our vans waiting for us. Departure on Sunday morning at 7.50a.m made us yearn to reach our respective homes.
Viewing lions on our way back made the whole trip worthwhile. Several tourists’ cars inched close to the animals who felt agitated seeing cameras flashing away and disrupting their seemingly peaceful and quiet evening.

CLIMBING KAGULU HILL OF MYSTERY

Visitors to the site pray at the “Well of life” on the hill. Kagulu Hill in Buyende District where the founding father of Busoga’s royal house, rested after crossing to Busoga from Bunyoro on Lake Kyoga is fast becoming a must visit tourist site in Busoga. On Saturday, May 11, I was one of the thousands who traveled to Kagulu for a hill climbing challenge organised by the Busoga Cultural Tourism Initiative. The hill is subject of many mysterious tales, a number of which I had heard before the challenge. It is said that the last ritual during the installment of Busoga’s Kyabazinga is done here- he has to climb the hill and if he fails, he is not the right Kyabazinga. A multicoloured snake with two heads is said to inhabit the hill and guard it together with a leopard. Shiny rocks and caves With anxiety we started our climb uphill. As we moved closer, the hill seemed to be moving farther away. It has a staircase on the southern side, built on the orders of President Idi Amin who was enchanted by the clear view it gave of neighbouring districts in Busoga, Teso and Lango regions. The staircase was one of two options of reaching the top of the hill, the other, climbing it from the northern side. The journey to the top takes you past six small rocks which tradition says are Mukama’s wives; Kagweere, Bukolimo, Butadewo, Mpanga, Kagweese and Muwaale. The summit of the hill, 10,000 feet above sea level, is home to a number of shiny black and grey rocks and caves which are now habitats to primates. However according to folklore, these caves once offered sanctuary to early settlers in Busoga. An aged woman Mandwa Kagulu Nabiryo, who is said to be an oracle haunted by the 45 spirits that own and patrol the hill, has a shrine at its top. There are also two wells, and a dugout canoe and an oar said to belong to Nabiryo. Etched into the rock are a man’s foot, a spear and dog which were allegedly drawn by the spirits. A small lake at the summit attracts people from all over Busoga who believes it gives good fortune. Kagulu residents claim that the lake does not dry up no matter the intensity of the drought. A bodaboda cyclist from Kamuli who only identified himself as Mawanda, said the water is a source of blessings, but the blessings depend on “what you want and how you ask the gods to meet your needs.” Dropping a coin into the water, he said, earns you a reward from the ancestors. That day, there were also a number of women imploring the gods to bless and strengthen their marriages. One had brought a child for blessing, saying she “got it” from the gods last year when she came to Kagulu after a decade in a childless marriage. While the water from the wells and lake does not look clean, this was no problem to some of the climbers who drunk it as they meditated on their wishes to the gods. A call to preserve heritage: Prince William Nadiope IV of Bugabula, where the hill lies, who had visited the hill a week earlier to “clear” way for the climbers by telling the spirits on the hill that friendly visitors were coming, asked his subjects to showcase their clans and totems. “Many people don’t know their totems and clans,” he said, and yet they “explain the depth of their culture.” The prince, who had travelled to Malaysia when the challenge was held, asked cultural leaders to create awareness of the totems so young people can easily trace their ancestral roots. At the foot of the hill are signs of quarrying activity which run counter to the Kingdom’s strategy to promote the hill as a tourist attraction. Sulaiman Balyejjusa, the area Member of Parliament, asked Kagulu residents to protect the site. “This is a good chance we should not let go. Our fish has reduced; we no longer keep as many cows like our ancestors used to. Please take advantage of this initiative to address poverty,” he said. BY Rafiki Adventure Tours

Clicking at natural treasures

In Summary

Merely appreciating Uganda’s natural treasures was not enough for him. He had to get a camera and capture the magical moments. After a couple of shots, he was hooked. Today Gooch is a seasoned photographer of nature despite the fact that he has a career in a totally different field.

When Andy Gooch was 10, he was given a box brownie (cardboard box camera). He was going camping as a young scout. He loved the photographs he took then, but looking back he says they were rubbish.

“When I was 13 or 14, I bought a SLR camera with my paper round money, the bug stayed with me on and off. I even remember putting down becoming a photographer on my careers choice when I was 16, and went into sales instead,” he recounts.

Doing sales was a good experience, but he was destined to become a photographer and today he defines it as his big passion. “By the time I left the UK, I had a dark room kitted out in my loft. This was a long time before the age of digital, now everything is done on a lap top,” he recollects.

And he is not ignoring technological advancement. He stores his images on a laptop from which he shows me priceless photographs he took during his stay in national parks. It is from this beautiful collection that he has been able to sustain a photography column in this magazine. But for a long time, he couldn’t have time to dedicate time to take as many photographs as he wanted in the African pearl because of the pressures of work.
But like luck would have it, his work led him to the great sights in Kabwoya Game Reserve. Sadly though, for some time, he could only appreciate the wild life.

“I was lucky enough to work in Kabwoya Game Reserve, on the shores of Lake Albert, with Equator Catering and Tullow Oil. I used to spend time driving from drill site to drill site and soon wished I had a camera, so the next trip home to see my parents I ordered one and never looked back. It was always with me on the passenger seat and I would stop whenever I saw something interesting,” Gooch recounts.

First time in Uganda
He came to Uganda in June 2002 in the middle of the World Cup. “Hot, dusty and very green,” as his first impression of Uganda. He was looking for new and different surroundings. “It could not have been more different from Watford (near London) where I was living at the time. I remember sending my mate an email saying this place needs a sweep, a dust and a coat of paint,” he further recollects. “But also very friendly and a lot of fun,” he adds.

The people, scenery and wildlife impressed him more as a photographer. Of course like any stranger making friends was certain and his list of new friends were not socially defined. He made friends with boda boda riders, bar staff and advocates.

Uganda culture was soon to impact on him. “I hate the word “sorry” and the word “what” or at least the over use of them.” And the friends he’s made and people he meets don’t want him to stay single forever. “I find it funny that when Ugandans find out I am not in a relationship and childless, they then want to find me a wife regardless of whether I need one or not,” he says.

Perhaps his eyes were for game. “I have many ideas for books, various stages of development and cash flow will dictate if and when they come out,” he discloses. He tells me that he is in completion stages of the books.

Collection of nature
He has about seven or eight ideas all on different subjects and more focused than the first book titled Uganda the beauty and some beasts. His plan is to present Uganda is a positive light, as it has so much to offer residents and tourists.

He plans to capture East African Primates, 10 to 12 species of primate found in Uganda. He will be looking at their life, habitat and activities he planned to publish finding by end of 2011. He will do the photographs and Lettice Bell, a primatologist, will do the text.

He plans to photograph over 150 species of East African Birds as well as tell the story of the River Nile as it flows through Uganda from Jinja to Sudan, looking at people, trade and wildlife. On this project, he will do the photos and words will be by Andrew Roberts.

But all this was triggered off when Gooch sent a bunch of good photos to his friends and family instead of a Christmas card. They thought it would be fun to do something longer-lasting with them, hence the encouragement to do the first book. “It ended up being a huge learning curve and so much fun and hard work,” he tells.

His aim is to prove that there is so much more about Uganda than its troubled past. “…we have a lot of great stuff that will interest people from all around the world. People back home still talk about the bad times in the 70s.” He adds, “I really hope Uganda can develop and become a major centre of tourism, agriculture and industry in the future, it’s not going to be easy or happen overnight, but it could happen.”

by Joseph

Delights of a coastal paradise

Swimming in the Indian Ocean is very exciting.

If you want to escape the madding crowds in the capital the world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page, I can proudly tell you that reading pages on my four-day leisure trip to coastal Mombasa was memorable.

With seven journalist friends, Michael, Nisha, Hillary, Andrew, Barbra, Robert, Moses and our host, Regina from Air Uganda, we set out to kick the white sands in the coastal town.

Forget your favourite resorts, beaches in Mombasa have the white sands and the experience comes in full measure.

Our first stop was at Hemingsway Resort where the language of hospitality starts at the welcome lounge with a glass of fresh juice and cinnamon-scented face towels to cool us of the effects of the approximately 90-minute direct flight on the wings of East Africa.

There is a bit of a stretch from the airport to Hemingsway, but the little fatigue will all vanish once you drive into this resort of tropical splendour. “We need to check out the beaches, guys,” Hillary, visibly excited, beckoned us.

“Let’s check in first and then we’ll have all the time to experience the resort,” Regina calmly suggested. The hotel staff checked us in and led us to our hotel rooms that directly face the sparkling blue self-imposing Indian Ocean. Well, our trip came a week earlier to Christmas Day, and the festive cheer was in the air with the coastal stretch crowded with tourists from all over the world who chose to take a break from life’s routine to relax all day and experience the coast’s grandeur.
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Bumping into white old wealthy couples, as well as middle age Kenyan couples with their young families is common place here. Nicholas, our tour guide told me that there are many hotels and every resort will have to put their best foot forward.

We split our short holiday between the south coast and north coast, and thinking that Hemingsway was Mombasa’s beauty, was for a moment. On our second day, we crossed to the north coast and Leopard Beach Hotel and Spa proved its worth as a beauty in greenery along the coastal Diani beach on the northern coast.

“Tycoons and International dignitaries come to enjoy their holidays here,” the hotel’s management told us as we toured Serena Breach Hotel and Spa after a sumptuous lunch.

The hotel opens up to lovely traditional Swahili architecture and designs and décor of heavy wood, sukkah embroidering on the ceilings and lanterns along the walkways. When we visited, the hotel was fully booked and further on in the compound, the presence of tourists was heavy, all the way to the lawns that are dotted with palm trees. The palm garden overlooks the coastline where white tourists bask in shades, taking portions of the sun as they chat, read novels or simply take an afternoon siesta along the sandy pristine beaches.

The beach boys who partly provide tour guide services, are in business too, enjoying the company of the white ladies. It is a generally happy mood and you would want to have this experience forever in this home to some of the world’s best beaches.

And what is more, nightlife is also an experience on its own in the south coast. At Hemingsway Resort, we were entertained by Vivian & the Jazzy Souls that musically took us places and to different times, from Aretha Franklin to sounds of the Beatles, Regina Belle, Michael Bolton and back home to Juliana Kanyomozi’s duet with Burundian star Kidumu, Haturudi Nyuma.

Although its Christmas Day today, 2012 is not far into the future, you can start saving for a trip down to the coast for your chance to sample wonderful beaches, Swahili cuisine and culture.

If you go
Fights
Air Uganda flies direct to Mombasa three times a week.
Cost of flight is Us $400
Accommodation
At Hemingsway Resort Ksh13,000 ( Shs300, 000) for Sea View Superior Singles,Ksh20,000 ( Shs540,000) for Sea View Superior Twin/double and Sea View Executive Suite of one and two bedrooms for Ksh42,000 (Shs1.1m) and Ksh68,000 (Shs1.8 million ) respectively. These rates apply for East African residents.

Burundi the country with Rich culture

Drummers are a must see when you are in Burundi. They reflect the rich culture.

In Summary

The civil war may have set Burundi back by some years, however, today things are looking up in the country. Even if you are like to face language barrier, a visit to the capital will leave you impressed, especially by the rich fruit basket and cuisine.

Wedged between Tanzania, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and Rwanda, Burundi occupies a high plateau divided by several deep valleys and its road from Rwanda meanders round, very steep, with beautiful scenery.
Coffee plantations welcome a visitor to Burundi and in the outskirts of the city; you will see women carrying hoes, babies on their backs – probably evidence that people are hardworking.

The phrase I can use to best describe Bujumbura and its people is “there is an information gap” and it’s evident when even a cab driver fails to know places one could think obvious like the parliament, big hotels and shopping centres like supermarkets. Other people in town don’t even know there is a big conference in their town. “Some of them don’t just care,” says Edward Ndavuze, a cab driver, speaking in his local Kirundi dialect. Ndavuze spent a few years in Uganda as a little boy, so he speaks some English.

Information gap, language barrier and the French man’s bug still eats up the Barundi, in almost all aspects- and they will probably take more years to learn the language of East Africans- English.

Whoever you meet is speaking Kiswahili, French, complicated Kirundi and some speak Congolese- this is a trying time for a Ugandan visitor. “What do you expect of a people that have known nothing but wars?” a colleague asked me.
The war that finally ended in May 2008 had claimed close to 300,000 people. In August 2005, former Hutu rebel leader Pierre Nkurunziza was elected president by parliament. The peaceful transfer of power to a democratically elected leader seemed to indicate that Burundi’s 12-year civil war was truly at an end- and indeed it had come to the real end.

President Nkurunziza says Burundi has transformed from “a relatively isolated country, which was associated mainly with internal civil unrest, to a land- linked country with a vibrant economy, improved infrastructure, and a stable socio-political system.”

“Our ability and capacity to accommodate, not only international conferences, but also to attract increasing incidence on foreign direct investments, are clear positive indications of the tangible benefits of regional integration,” President Nkuruzinza said.

Many Ugandans who have visited Bujumbura for long have testimony to the growth of the small city. “When we first started coming here for parliamentary sessions, we would all maneuver to fit in the single hotel that was around those years, but a few years down the road, the capital is booming with hotels and even more are coming up,” says Bernard Mulengani, a Ugandan East African Legislative Assembly(EALA) member.

Roads in the capital are wide, and well made. I am told that all the new developments and infrastructure seen in the capital have been built in less than five years. I didn’t see potholes, I didn’t see any dirty streets expect in the central market.

“A lot of developments that I can’t count have happened in a flash of an eye. The East African community has been the best thing that can ever happen to the country and I’m sure they can never regret joining the community,” says Mike Ssebalu, also a Ugandan EALA member.

The central market closes at 4pm Burundi time, no lunch is available in any hotel or restaurant because the Barundi leave their work places, go home and eat from their traditional cuisine, then take a siesta. The restaurants only operate in the evenings and with the slow reception and service, patience is what a visitor should carry when they go to Bujumbura.

However, on the plus, all the hotels in the city have free internet connections, so even as you wait for that food order which if you are lucky will take not hours; you can make yourself comfortable with internet. And finally when the food comes, it will assure you that Bujumbura is a city of fruits, each type of food will come with fresh fruits in plenty.

Together with their neighbouring Rwanda, Burundi became a full EAC member in July 2007 and thanks to the membership, Burundi which had almost died, has resurrected. “Potholes were the order of the day, the whole town was dirty and there were hardly any cars on the streets. I can now see traffic jam, the speed of development is terrific,” Eriya Kategaya, First Deputy Premier reminisces of the old days in Bujumbura.

Burundi’s economy is estimated to be $2bn. The country has two distinct ethnic groups: the Hutu and the Tutsi. While these cultures have coexisted for centuries and now share a common language and many cultural elements, they remain separate in terms of group identification.

Notwithstanding the language barrier that a first time visitor with no knowledge of French and good Kiswahili will face, Burundi is a place to visit because it has interesting sites.
by Rafiki Adventures

Air Uganda to Start Domestic Flight Services

Air Uganda plans to start domestic flight services as the carrier marks four years of existence this month. Airline activity is picking up with the arrival of the major global players like Turkish, Delta and Qatar airlines at the Entebbe International Airport.

Kyle Haywood, the Air Uganda boss said plans were underway to acquire a new fleet of planes to explore the regional and national destinations in the next two years. He also revealed that the Aga Khan-owned airline has recorded a 17% increase in passenger traffic since its inception.

“Over the past four years, passengers have begun to get the right perception that we are here to stay. In order to reduce on fuel costs, cut wastage and increase efficiencies we are looking to get the right size and model of aircraft to operate in the East African region and nationally by 2013,” he told reporters at the Airlines Kampala head office.

The Airline is largely recognized as the national carrier after the collapse of Uganda Airlines in May 2001. Previous carriers, Alliance Air, Air Memphis, Africa one, and Victoria International Airlines went under due to financial woes.

Haywood explained that the airline is looking to improve its service to fliers along the Entebbe- Nairobi route and increase flight frequencies to Juba in south Sudan to consolidate its presence in the region.

“Currency depreciation and increases in inflation have reduced the disposable income of leisure fliers and increases in the costs of fuel have directly hit us, however, we are applying the lessons learnt from previous Airlines to steer forward,” he explained.

Haywood pointed out that that the arrival of large international airplanes will feed into the Airliners sales to boost the local economy through increased passenger traffic at Entebbe.

By Rafiki Adventures

Family tour with Rafiki Adventures

A tour in Uganda with children will be a memorable experience for the whole family. Rafiki Adventures designed a great trip whereby you pass all the "must see" of Uganda. What makes this trip special is that we shortened the travel distances compared to our general tours and where possible we included accommodation with a swimming pool.

Note: Chimpanzee tracking is only allowed for persons from 12 years and older. We don't visit Bwindi in this tour because gorilla tracking is only allowed for persons from 16 years and older. For this reason we go to see the chimpanzees at Ngamba island and Chimpanzee permits in Kibale Forest are optional.

Program

Day 1: Pick up from Entebbe Airport.
Day 2: Monkeys and birds in the Botanical Garden. Chimpanzees at Ngamba Island.
Day 3: A safari walk to the rhinos. To Murchison Falls National Park.
Day 4: A morning game drive and an afternoon boat safari in the park.
Day 5: A morning game drive. Transfer to Hoima.
Day 6: To Kibale Forest National Park: "A world of monkeys!!"
Day 7: Chimpanzee tracking and walk through Bigodi Swamp (monkeys & birds).
Day 8: Relaxing and game drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park.
Day 9: A morning game drive and an afternoon boat safari in the park.
Day 10: To Lake Bunyonyi + relaxing on one of the island.
Day 11: A whole day relaxing on the island.
Day 12: To Masaka.
Day 13: Visit the equator. To Kampala.

Rates

We can't give you a fixed price for this trip because all accommodations and activities have different prices and discount for children of different age groups. As well the amount of adults and children will change the price. Please ask for an offer.

Accommodation

Mainly luxurious lodges plus a few middle class lodges/hotels.
Meal plan

During this trip your have 2 nights accommodation based on 'bed only', 1 night on Half Board and 17 nights on Full Board.
Inclusions / Exclusions

Inclusions:
Transport in a 4wd mini bus with pop-up roof for excellent safari viewing.
English speaking driver/guide.
All fuel.
Accommodation based on Full Board (6 nights) in Paraa Lodge (Murchison Falls), Primate Lodge (Kibale Forest N.P) and Mweya Lodge (Queen Elizabeth N.P.), based on Bed & Breakfast in Entebbe, Hoima and Masaka (4 nights) and based on 'bed only' in Lake Bunyonyi (2 nights);
Entrance fees for Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Murchison Falls N.P., Kibale Forest N.P. and Queen Elizabeth N.P.
Ferry Murchison Falls N.P. (3 days).
Hike to the Top of the Falls (Murchison Falls N.P.).
All game drives as mentioned in the program in Murchison Falls N.P. and Queen Elizabeth N.P.
Two boat safaris (Murchison Falls N.P. and Queen Elizabeth N.P.).
Ranger fees (Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Murchison Falls N.P., Queen Elizabeth N.P.).
Exclusions
International air fares, entry visas (Visa Uganda is 50 US$).
Airport transfers before and after the trip (though this can be arranged at an additional cost, please enquire on booking).
Personal (medical/travel) insurance.
Tips and gratuities to your driver/guide, porters, hotel/camp staff etc.
All expenses of a personal nature (e.g. drinks, laundry, souvenirs etc.)
Optional activities (Swamp walk Bigodi).
All activities not mentioned in the program.
Chimpanzee permit (for all who are 12 years of age or above).

Meal plan

During this trips your have 2 nights accommodation based on 'bed only', 2 nights on Bed & Breakfast, 2 nights on Half Board and 6 nights on Full Board.